Hatenkou

A dark broth scented with fragrant black sesame and the gentle numbing hum of Sichuan pepper coats each mouthful of thick, wavy noodles. Set along the Nakasendo in Itabashi Ward, Hatenkou draws many of its regulars for its Sichuan black sesame dan dan noodles, where creamy sesame sweetness and savory depth emerge beneath the heat, keeping spoons dipping back for more. Variations include kakuni dan dan noodles topped with thick-cut braised pork belly, alongside brothless dan dan noodles delivering the direct crunch of bean sprouts and concentrated spices. Swirling in black vinegar from the counter midway through is a well-loved way to shift the bowl's flavor profile.

Among the side orders, the lunch-only Sichuan mapo tofu rice (small) is hard to pass up as an affordable add-on. Its savory-sweet heat and measured spice, bound in a glossy sauce, pair naturally with rice, offering an appealing balance between bites of spicy noodles. For days when chili is not on the agenda, non-spicy choices include sesame pork noodles—combining a white sesame broth with sliced pork belly and bean sprouts—as well as mild shio and shoyu noodles anchored by flavorful broth.

In the evening, the restaurant shifts into a comfortable spot to nurse a glass of beer or Shaoxing wine over dishes like iron-skillet stick gyoza, century egg tofu, or thick-sliced pork stir-fried with cabbage in miso sauce. Centered around counter seating, the subdued room also invites a sweet finish, with house specialties such as meltingly soft almond tofu or the decadent, ultra-thick "concrete" dessert.